US Highway 50

Nevada is a big state, and there are, more or less, only two ways to go from one side to the other: Interstate 80, or US Highway 50. We took 50, the so called “loneliest highway in America”. What a drive!

Lake Tahoe to Carson City

Left Tahoe Vista in the morning and drove round the lake, quickly crossing into Nevada (with ensuing flurry of border casinos).

 
Lookout point on edge of Lake Tahoe / Cruising down towards Carson City

Soon we were climbing up over the Sierra Nevadas again on our approach to Nevada. More amazing scenery; mountainous, rocky, pine forests. Very different to NZ.

Carson City to Austin

Soon we were passing through Carson City and onto US 50. It took a while to become ‘lonely'’; dual lanes of 4wds isn’t quite what I’d call lonely! But in the shortest gap of time we were on a tiny little highway, straight as far as the eye can see, not a car in sight!

Middle of nowhere, NV

US 50 snaking off as far as the eye can see / Our car – Hyundai Sonata

Truck appearing out of a mirage / Angela lost in the scenery

Camped the night just out of Austin, NV (named after Austin, Texas apparently). Took a lot of hunting to find the campground. Dinner in a rather dingy diner with another grumpy waitress.

Was cool overnight for the first time, not surprising considering we were at 6000 odd feet elevation. Lots of ear popping along the way as we crossed pass after pass, usually peaking at 7500’ or so. Chain fitting areas were all along the road so must get miserable in winter; temps were closer to the ‘scorching’ end of the spectrum. Saw a few mini-whirlwinds along the way, little dust twisters that flitted across the desert.

Austin to Baker

After another solid day of driving we arrived at Ely (eel-ie as they say). Now this is cowboy country, or rather, wanna-be-cowboy country. Everybody drives a pickup truck or 4wd. Every backyard has a rusted out American pickup, or an RV, or often multiples of both. The only radio station was KDZZ, "mainstream country". The buildings are straight out of a cowboy movie. The general store had a very well stocked liquor isle, with Malibu and vodka and all sorts of other hard liquors. Plus the usual $1.99 bottles of wine..!

Main street of Ely… notice how every single vehicle is a pickup truck? Also notice how the main road is 4 lanes wide; this is normal for a small street in the West.

 
General run-down decor / An amazing star-spangled eagle mural - "God bless America; land of the brave, home of the free". This doesn't seem out of the ordinary either.

Best bit was they had a steam train, and it was 'only' $US24 a person to ride it. Pays not to do currency conversions over here, can be a bit scary. It was a nice wee train with a great whistle, real deep serious sounding toots.

Then it was onwards again towards Baker, NV to camp the night. Found a very nice camp ground amongst all the RVs with good hot powerful showers for a reasonably (here at least) $17.

Baker to Salt Lake City

Next day we quickly crossed the border into Utah. The border was interesting. There was literally a line on the road where the good seal of Nevada stopped and the slightly less maintained tar-seal (oil as they call it) of Utah started. Speed limit was down 5 to 65mph (104kmh), clocks forward an hour, and there were now mileposts at the side of the road. And of course there was a gas station prominently advertising SLOTS just metres inside of Nevada. As if anyone is going to drive 77 miles from the nearest town to play slots!! Especially the good Mormon folks of Utah. Still, I had fun standing in two states at once.

Utah border, still boasting about the Winter Olympics of 2002 / UT/NV border, note the line in the seal and array of RVs parked at the service station for one last gambling fix.

Scenery changed quickly inside Utah as we passed through a small mountain pass. Took lots of photos, was a bit wearing wading through the grass and rocks, this is snake country after all!

Amazing rock formations

Another 70 miles later we hit Delta where we had lunch. Then onwards towards SLC; saw my first Mormon church and soon joined the Interstate. Here’s where things we downhill. My GPS started popping up traffic alerts, having not encountered these before I wasn’t sure what to make of it. Then suddenly the massive hulking view-blocking SUV in front of me skidded to a halt and I had all of 3 seconds to react; we went into full ABS as their back fender lunged towards me at an alarming rate. I skidded to a halt with all of 3 inches to spare and quickly lurched into the spot the SUV had just been before the guy behind me ploughed into us. So in a few car lengths the I15 had gone 75mph (120kmh) to zero. I could see smoke and a car on the verge in my mirror, but I think everyone got off very lightly considering what it could’ve been. I had visions of buying a new car for the rental company! After a quick change of underwear we set off again, everyone going much gentler and me allowing about 4x the stopping distance if following an SUV (i.e. every other vehicle).

From there the I15 quickly gained a few more lanes and became 6 lanes in each direction; approaching SLC it started gaining more and was up to 6 + 2 turning + 2 flyover lanes, and every single lane was packed with Labour Day vacationers returning home. F.U.N. Oh and all moving at 100+ kmh, switching lanes like they were going out of fashion. Eventually I escaped into central SLC, where it was "only" 4 lanes in each direction. Yes SLC love their roads.

Eventually found decided on a campsite, by now my brain was mush; Chch driving doesn’t even begin to prepare you for this! Imagine Morehouse Ave, travelling double the speed and with twice as many lanes and you begin to get a feeling for it! 2 lanes + median + another 2 lanes (and no on street parking) is the norm for SLC it seems. I’m getting the hang of it now, and having good fun outsmarting the GPS’ directions :-)

The campsite is an eye opener. We’re one of 4 tents, among a sea of RVs. There is a bus opposite us that is more modern than most tour coaches. It has "wings" that expand out, and awnings off them. This morning the owner was out with his step ladder (yes, he took his step ladder on holiday) giving it a thorough wash. He probably gave it a wax and buff after too. Our immediate neighbours have fake turf, a propane tank larger than most restaurants, an SUV and the largest pickup truck I have every seen; it has two sets of tyres on the back axle, and flares (more like wings) on the tray to contain all these tyres. I saw hundreds of these on the interstate, towing their RV like a truck, with another trailer for the dirt bikes & ATVs off that! Truly another world!

The Testosterone Pickup Truck, note the flared sites, satellite dish, "small" propane tank, and medium sized RV / Looking down the line of RVs and busses. Everyone has an SUV or bus here. If it doesn’t burn diesel, they don’t wanna know.

So that was US Highway 50. Would I recommend it? Yes! But you’d better love country music, cowboys, tiny towns, roads that have 1 bend every horizon, and most of all: desert. They say it’s the gateway to the real Nevada, and we certainly saw some real Nevada :-)